The bright yellow label is unmissable, and the house style is quite distinctive, too. This is one of the grand old houses in Champagne, but the winemaking is thoroughly up-to-date, aiming for technical perfection that does right by their top-rated vineyards and ancient history. The wine is light and fresh at the start, but then you notice the depth of flavor and the persistence of its freshness. If this wine can’t make you smile, and keep smiling, there’s no hope for you.