Many Chiantis labeled “Riserva” tend to be more oaky than the regular bottlings from the same estates, attracting people who like that sort of woody flavor and are happy to pay more for it. Felsina’s Riserva, labeled “Rancia” after the location of the vineyards, instead gets its serious character from the altitude and soil of those choice vineyards, and by the addition of a small amount of dried grapes to the wine while it ferments. The result is atypical - lush and rich - but wonderful.
