The progression from regular, reserve, and single-vineyard Chiantis at this ancient estate is remarkable: They’re all medal-worthy - ascending from elegant, ethereal bronze to gracefully substantial silver to the full-bore, operatic vitality of the gold, labeled “Coltassala,” made mostly from a darker clone of Sangiovese known as Sangioveto. It’s a wine to drink in four to five years, with a special dinner.
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